Weeknight Mushroom Ragu


I was home alone on a Sunday night, staring down Peter Berley, Mario Batali, and some hen-of-the-woods mushrooms that I’d picked up at the farmer’s market. Peter said to oven-roast the mushrooms before returning to the skillet — too fussy for a weeknight. Mario demanded his delicious tomato sauce as a basic ingredient, and I had none on hand.

Could I make a rich, delicious mushroom ragu using only a skillet and a knife, without having so much as removed an onion from the pantry drawer, in only 30 minutes? Nah. I could do it in 25. Boys? Game on.

Time: 25 minutes
Serves: 4, with whole-wheat pasta, thick slices of toasted whole-grain bread, or polenta.

Ingredients:
2 T EVOO
2 large cloves garlic, minced
2 medium onions, diced
1 bay leaf
3 baby carrots, sliced (optional)
12-16 ounces of wild mushrooms, or a mix of wild and button mushrooms, chopped coarsely or sliced into pieces appropriate for a chunky sauce
1 c red wine
1 t salt
1.5 t thyme
1 14.5 ounce can diced tomatoes
2 T tomato paste
1 T butter or heart-smart margarine (optional)
salt and pepper to taste

1. Heat olive oil in a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering.
2. Add onions. Saute about 5 minutes until golden-brown. Add garlic and bay leaf and carrots, if using.
3. Add mushrooms. Saute about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally until ingredients are well-mingled and mushrooms have released most of their liquid.
4. Add wine and stir to deglaze pan.
5. Add salt, thyme, tomatoes, and tomato paste. Grind in some fresh black pepper. Reduce heat.
6. Stir in additional 1T butter/margarine, if desired. Taste to adjust salt and pepper and correct seasonings.

image shared pursuant to the GFDL

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Salmon, Walnuts, and Mustard Vinaigrette . . . and Other Ways.


I recently went to the farmer’s market, saw a woman try a green bean, and start moaning. I chose to keep my public expressions of joy over these magic beans a little more restrained, but I must admit — they really were that good. Since then I’ve been bringing home green beans and heirloom tomatoes every week to make a salad. Each week has been different. Sometimes the salad is a side dish with a simple balsamic vinaigrette. Other times it’s a main course, with walnuts, canned salmon, and Omega-3s to spare. Whatever it is, it takes no more than 15 minutes, it’s stunningly delicious, and it’s so fresh that it makes me feel almost as if I’ve picked the fruits myself. Once you’ve found your favorite farmers market stand, I offer you the following expanding list of ideas. You may steam the green beans first, or just leave them raw. With some whole grain bread or this wonderful socca from Bitten, you’ll soon be in whole food heaven.

Time: ~10-15 minutes
Serves: 2-6, depending on whether you are planning a salad or main course, which variety you make, and what you accompany it with.

Base Ingredients:
1 lb green beans, tips removed
1 pint cherry tomatoes

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Walnuts, Canned Salmon, and Mustard Vinaigrette (pictured above):
Flake 1 can (wild) salmon over the green beans. Whisk in a small bowl 2 t dijon mustard, 2 t honey, 2-3 T sherry vinegar, 2-3 T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss dressing with salad and sprinkle with (toasted) walnuts.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Whole Grain Croutons and Lemon Vinaigrette:
Toast chunks of whole grain bread tossed with garlic (or – gasp – garlic powder), salt, and pepper or red pepper flakes to taste. Meanwhile, whisk in a small bowl zest of 1/2 lemon, juice of 1 lemon, 3T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Add a drop of honey if dressing is too acidic. Toss with salad; add croutons.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Toasted Hazelnuts, Goat Cheese, and Balsamic Vinaigrette:
Lightly toast hazelnuts in a small skillet or toaster oven. Meanwhile, in a small bowl whisk 2-3 T balsamic vinegar, 2-3 T EVOO, 1-2 T honey, 1 clove minced garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss dressing with salad; sprinkle with hazelnuts and crumbled goat cheese.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Toasted Macadamia Nuts and Lemon Vinaigrette:
Toast macadamia nuts in a small skillet or toaster oven. Meanwhile, whisk in a small bowl zest of 1/2 lemon, juice of 1 lemon, 3T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Add a drop of honey if dressing is too acidic. Toss dressing with salad; sprinkle with macadamia nuts.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Corn and Spicy Lime Vinaigrette:
Whisk in a small bowl or blend in a blender or mini-food processor juice of one lime, red pepper flakes, cayenne pepper, or fresh hot pepper to taste, 3T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Toss with green beans, cherry tomatoes, and 1 can corn kernels or fresh corn kernels.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar:
Simple. Delicious. Done.

Simmered Japanese Squash with Ground Chicken

Sweet, succulent squash makes this dish both simple to make and crowd-pleasing. Even my picky nieces would eat it as children.

This recipe calls for a Japanese kitchen gadget called otoshi buta, or a wooden drop lid, pictured at left. The drop lid fits inside the pot, directly atop the food, to help the food simmer faster. Don’t have a drop lid? Neither do I. Just use a regular pot lid 1-2 sizes smaller than your pot.

Shoyu is Japanese soy sauce. It can be found at Japanese markets, at Whole Foods, and increasingly, at regular grocery stores. It’s deep, mellow flavor is much more complex than regular soy sauce.

You can use ground turkey in this dish instead of chicken but it tends to dry out. I’d recommend kneading the raw turkey with an onion and some of the shoyu before adding it to the pot to help keep it moist.

Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4, accompanied by rice, soba noodles, or whole grain bread

Ingredients:
1 medium butternut or red kuri squash, or 2-3 delicata squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1″ chunks.
1/2 pound ground chicken
4 t shoyu or soy sauce; more to taste
1.5 T agave or 5 T sugar

1) Place the squash, 1 1/4 cups of water, agave, and 2 t shoyu in a 3-4 quart saucepan. Cover with the drop lid. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat until squash is tender.
2) Using an oven mitt, remove the drop lid. Crumble chicken over the top of the squash. Sprinkle with remaining 2 t shoyu or more to taste.
3) Replace pot lid (not drop lid). Cook 3-4 minutes until chicken is cooked through.

This recipe is adapted from Masako Yamaoka, “A First Book of Japanese Cooking,” Kodansha International, 1996.

This Wikipedia and Wikimedia Commons image is from the user Chris 73 and is freely available at http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:OtoshiButa.DropLid.jpg under the creative commons cc-by-sa 2.5 license.

Collard Wraps with Pumpkin and Seitan


Once you roast the pumpkin, these delicious and exotic wraps take just 15 minutes of work. If you roast the pumpkin with the garlic and a bunch of other vegetables early in the week, you can enjoy a bounty of vegetables and easy meal preparation all week long. Rich, yet mellow pumpkin makes these simple wraps quite filling and satisfying. Wraps make this a fun way to get kids and others to try collards.

Time: 45 minutes to roast the pumpkin and garlic; 15 minutes to prepare after that
Serves: 2; easily doubled (just use multiple small pumpkins to ensure sweetness)

Ingredients:
1 sugar pumpkin, 2-3 pounds, stabbed several times to vent and roasted for 45 minutes at 400 degrees.
liberated cloves from 1 head of roasted garlic (cut top from head to uncover open cloves, sprinkle with olive oil and roast alongside pumpkin)
2 T mellow white miso
1 package seitan, chopped into bite-sized pieces
4 T shoyu
collard greens

1) Bring a 2 or 3 quart saucepan of water to boil. Reduce to a simmer. Add 3 T shoyu and seitan. Let seitan simmer while you prepare other ingredients.
2) While waiting for water to boil, scoop pumpkin from shell. Mash well with miso and garlic cloves.
3) Dip collards in the shoyu-water mixture to moisten.
4) Drain seitan. Drizzle remaining 1 T of shoyu over seitan.
5) Construct wraps. Spread about a tablespoon of pumpkin mixture on a collard leaf. Top with a few pieces of seitan. Fold leaf and eat the constructed wrap like an exotic, healthy, green burrito. Repeat.

Green Salad with Pomegranate, Peaches, and Pepitas


Sweet late summer peaches and glistening ruby pomegranate jewels pop over a bed of baby spinach where pepitas and sunflower sprouts crunch. High-magnesium pepitas and anti-oxidant pomegranates make this salad burst with nutrition, too. For best results, share with friends. This is more of a list of ingredients than a recipe. All measurements should be done to taste.

Serves: 2-4-6 (depending on the proportions you use)
Time: 15 minutes, including chopping time

Ingredients:
1 pomegranate
baby spinach
sunflower sprouts
2 peaches, diced
handful mint leaves, coarsely chopped
handful pepitas

Vinaigrette:
2 T balsamic vinegar (fig-balsamic vinegar if you can find it)
3 T EVOO
1 T honey
salt and red pepper flakes to taste

1) Cut the pomegranate crosswise into ~4 slices and place the slices into a bowl of cold water. Winnow out the seeds. The pith will float to the top and you can skim it off.
2) Rinse and spin in a salad spinner the spinach, sunflower sprouts, and mint.
3) Toss together the pomegranate seeds and all other salad ingredients in a large bowl.
4) Whisk together the vinegrette and dress the salad.
5) Crunch with glee.

Muhammara (Pomegranate Walnut Paste)


Jews traditionally eat pomegranates at the time of the Jewish New Year, Rosh HaShanah. The many seeds of the fruit are said to symbolize the 613 commandments of the Torah, and so the pomegranate has been a symbol of righteousness in Jewish tradition since ancient times. The many seeds also symbolize fertility and plenty. To health-conscious Americans, pomegranates also represent an anti-oxidant bonanza. For everyone with a Mediterranean-inspired palate, pomegranates are simply delicious.

I discovered muhammara in Claudia Roden’s seminal cookbook, The New Book of Middle Eastern Food. Upon further exploration, I was delighted to learn that muhammara originated in Aleppo, a city in Northern Syria whose richly flavored Arab, Armenian, Turkish, and Jewish-inspired cuisine is renowned throughout the Middle East. One of the highlights of my summer was introducing some Jordanian friends to the delicious part of their culture that is muhammara. I hope you, too, will share many special moments over this simple yet exotic dish.

Pomegranate molasses can be found at Whole Foods, at Middle Eastern groceries, and at kosher markets catering to an Israeli or Sephardi/Mizrachi clientele. It usually comes in glass bottles. It is also marketed as pomegranate syrup or concentrate.

Consider serving muhammara as part of a larger mezze spread, with plates of hummus and baba ganouj and some toasted pita as an appetizer or a light meal. Maybe throw in a plate of olives. And don’t forget the za’atar. Alternatively try muhammara as a condiment for grilled veggies.

Adapted from Claudia Roden’s The New Book of Middle Eastern Cuisine.
Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 6-8

1 1/4 C shelled walnuts
2 T tomato paste
1 slice lightly toasted crustless whole wheat bread
2 T pomegranate molasses
1/2 C EVOO
1 t red pepper flakes or a pinch of ground chili
1 t cumin
2 t sugar
salt to taste

Whir all ingredients in a food processor or blender until they form a rough-textured paste. Enjoy.

Roast Chicken with [Saffron/Herb/Spice], Onions, Parsley, and Mint

Succulent juicy chicken, perfectly flavored, with a clean Spring-y sauce for any season.

I brought back an enormous bag of saffron from the Middle East, and I’ve been using it liberally in my cooking. If saffron isn’t in your pantry or your budget, try pepper flakes, crushed fennel seeds, lemon peel, rosemary . . . experiment!

Tip: My chickens arrive with the neck still attached. Remove the neck, place in a saucepan, heat on high until sizzling (no added fat needed), fill with water, bring to a boil, and simmer while you’re doing everything else. Voila, stock! Use as needed in the recipe, and freeze the leftovers for next time.

Time: ~1:15; most of which is not work time.
Serves: 4

Ingredients:
1 whole 3-4lb chicken
2 handfuls parsley, coarsely chopped
1 handful mint, coarsely chopped
1 T olive oil
2 T margarine or butter (or more olive oil in a pinch)
1 pinch saffron (or other herb)
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
Juice of 1 lemon
4 cloves garlic, minced
~1 c stock or water
salt and pepper

1) Preheat oven to 500 degrees
2) Mix juice of 1/2 lemon, about 1/2 c herbs (ballpark), 1/2 the garlic, salt, and pepper. Rub all over the chicken, over and under the skin. Place breast side down on a roasting rack in a roasting pan and begin roasting. If you don’t have a roasting rack, make a thick ring of tin foil and set the bird on that. The key is to keep it out of its own juices so it doesn’t get soggy.
3) In a medium skillet over medium heat, swirl olive oil and margarine. Add onions and saffron cook until onions are softened (~10 minute). Reserve ~2T herbs for garish. Stir in remaining garlic and herbs and ~1/2 c stock. Keep ready on low heat.
4) After 20 minutes, baste chicken with skillet mixture, turn breast side up, and baste again. Roast 8 more minutes and baste again. When breast begins to brown, turn heat down to 325 degrees, baste, and roast until instant-read thermometer in the thickest part of the thigh reads 160 degrees. This should take about an hour of total roasting time.
5) Remove chicken from oven and let rest for 5 minutes before carving for maximum juiciness. Garnish with remaining 2T herbs.
6) Remove sauce from heat. Add juice of 1/2 lemon and additional chicken stock as needed. Serve with chicken.
7) Dine and sigh with contentment.

Japanese Roasted Vegetable and Wild Rice Salad with Miso-Apple-Wasabi Glaze

Since I returned from the Middle East, I’ve been living off of my local farmers’ market. I love the sights and sounds of farmers talking excitedly and knowledgeably about their colorful and juicy wares and shoppers exchanging recipes as they buy. I’ve been bringing a friend along, who informs me yesterday that she has been a vegetarian all fall since I’ve introduced her to our local veggies. I guess my enthusiasm for fresh produce is contagious!

Last week I cooked up all the fresh produce left in my fridge — white and purple eggplants, green peppers, divine giant shiitake mushrooms — and brought it to 2 Rosh HaShanah dinners and a lunch, satisfying two very happy familes and at least one very discriminating 7-year-old.

This recipe draws heavily from Mollie Katzen’s “Grilled Eggplant and Portobello Mushrooms with Miso-Apple-Wasabi Glaze” from The Vegetable Dishes I Can’t Live Without. This recipe is very flexible — try the glaze with whatever veggies you have on hand, or with tofu, seitan, or tempeh. The glaze will keep in the fridge, tightly covered, for up to a week. Wild rice is high in protein and fiber, and a great source of potassium, phospohorus, thiamine, riboflavin, and niacin.

Serves: 8 (easily halved or multiplied)
Time: 45-60 minutes (plus rice-cooking time. Be aware that most time is spent chopping veggies, so add or substitute accordingly.)

Ingredients:

Rice:
2 C wild rice
1 C brown rice
salt
1T EVOO or butter/margarine

Veggies:
2 large or 3 medium eggplants, unpeeled, cut into 3/4″ half-rounds or quarter-rounds (depending on the size of the eggplants), salted with kosher or sea salt, and set aside.
4 large shiitake or portobello mushrooms, cut into 1″ pieces
2 green peppers, cut into 1″ chunks
canola or peanut oil

Glaze:
1 clove garlic
1/2 t fresh ginger
1/2 t prepared wasabi
4T white miso
4T apple juice

Soy Vinaigrette:
1-1.5T good soy sauce (shoyu)
1/2″ knob fresh ginger, sliced
1 large clove garlic
3 T rice or cider vinegar
1 T toasted sesame oil
1/2 C minus 1 T neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola. EVOO will also work in a pinch.
salt and pepper to taste

1) Cook the rice with oil/butter/margarine and a sprinkling of salt, according to brown rice package directions or preferably in a rice cooker.
2) Preheat broiler, arranging rack about 4″ below heat. Line a baking tray with foil and spritz with oil or cooking spray.
3) Whisk glaze ingredients (or whir in a blender or food processor) until smooth.
4) Rinse eggplant and pat dry. Arrange eggplant, mushrooms, peppers, and/or other veggies on prepared tray. Sprinkle/spray lightly with oil and salt.
5) Broil until eggplant is golden brown, ~3-4 minutes. Watch carefully so eggplant doesn’t burn. Turn veggies and broil another 3-4 minutes. Eggplant should be dark golden brown and soft.
6) Turn veggies again and brush with glaze. Broil 2-3 minutes more. Glaze should bubble a bit and have a few golden brown spots.
7) In-between trips to the oven, make the soy vinaigrette for the rice salad. Combine all dressing ingredients in a small food processor or blender until emulsified.
8) Toss soy vinaigrette with rice. Add veggies and toss again.
9) Serve hot or at room temperature, with extra glaze, freshly ground black pepper, or alone in its delicious and fragrant solitude.

Serendipitous Summer Salad

One hot summer night back in 2007, I combined the freshest, ripest ingredients I could find, a couple bottles of wine, and several good friends. The result was an evening so delicious and memorable that I find myself thinking about it in a homesick and hungry moment almost exactly two years later and thousands of miles away.

Middle Eastern recipes will follow soon enough. In the meantime, try this. Most amounts are up to you; it’s hard to go wrong:

Several handfuls Baby Spinach
1-2 Avocadoes, sliced
1-2 handfuls Blackberries
1-2 handfuls fresh Figs, quartered
1-2 handfuls fresh apricots, sliced
1-2 handfuls Walnuts
1 fresh spring onion (or vidalia, or plain old yellow), sliced into thin rings or half-rings
2T Balsamic Vinegar
1 spoonful Mustard (ideally raspberry wasabi dipping mustard)
Juice of 1 lemon
Maple Syrup, to taste
Salt & Pepper

1) Caramelize the onion. Cook 1 chopped onion and plenty of sea salt in approx 1/2c olive oil (to cover and coat) over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally until browned (but definitely not burned!)
2) Deglaze pan with balsamic vinegar, loosening any bits of onion
3) Still in the pan, add 1 spoonful mustard, lemon juice, and maple syrup to taste.
4) Place greens in bowl. Toss with dressing. Add fruit and toss again.

Variation: Substitute leek for the onion and use frozen blueberries and their syrup in place of some of the maple syrup. Works great in winter when berries are unavailable.

Green Salad with Portobello Mushrooms, Figs, and Rosemary-Yogurt Dressing

Sweet figs, creamy tart yogurt, earthy mushrooms, and crunchy nuts combine in a palate sensaation. You can grill the portobello mushrooms in advance. Or grill a lot of them, use them for another dish, and make this salad with the leftovers.

True yogurt, a local yogurt produced in Vermont, is delicious and Lactose-Free!

Serves: 2 as a main course or substantial first course (easily multiplied)
~6-8 oz baby spinach or other greens, rinsed and dried well
1 onion, diced
~3-4 portobello mushroom caps
5 oz plain yogurt
Zest of 1/2 lemon and juice of 1 whole lemon (zest half the lemon, then juice it)
~10 dried figs, minced
handful of walnuts or hazelnuts
1T olive oil plus more for brushing
pinch dried rosemary (or a 3x larger pinch fresh)
pinch salt
pepper

1. In a small skillet, heat onion and a pinch of salt in 1T olive oil over medium-low heat until onion caramelizes. Stir occasionally. When onions are mostly browned, throw walnuts in the pan to toast for a few minutes.
2. Meanwhile, brush mushroom caps with olive oil. Grill or Broil ~5 minutes; check for doneness. Chop into large pieces.
3. Make the dressing: Whisk together yogurt, rosemary, lemon juice and zest, and salt and pepper to taste.
4, Toss in a large bowl: greens, caramelized onions, nuts, mushrooms, and figs. Slowly add dressing to taste.