Brown Rice Paella

A gluten-free, dairy-free, and soy-free entree to impress.

I was rushing to make this before our guests arrived and forgot to take a photo.  And it was gorgeous.  So let me describe it instead:  A beautiful bed of brown rice, with a perfect crust on the bottom, with roasted orange carrots, green farmshare zucchini, and earthy shiitake mushrooms, dotted throughout with red-ripe farmshare grape tomatoes, topped with golden-brown chicken and spicy chorizo, flecked throughout with smoky Spanish pimenton.  All this served to oohs and aahs after 20 minutes of work.  

I recently completed Mark Bittman’s Food Matters: A Guide to Conscious Eating with More than 75 Recipes.  In it, Bittman explains his turn to a “sensible way of eating,” involving more plants and less meat, in his signature off-the-cuff, humorous, accessible style.  Part part screed against the meat industry, part clarion call to eco-consciousness, part diet book, and part weight-loss memoir, Food Matters does all of these things well, although others have already done this.  The 75 new recipes in Food Matters, all of which showcase little meat and lots of veggies, are all Bittman’s usual top notch.  This recipe is inspired by the paella recipe in that book.

As always on the SGG, this recipe is flexible.  Use whatever fresh veggies you have on hand, setting them gently to roast on the top.  The more colors, the better.  Replace the tomatoes and some of their stock with canned diced tomatoes and their juices.  Use more meat, or less, or substitute shrimp and seafood.  To make it vegetarian, omit the chicken and chorizo, up the pimenton, and add veggies to your heart’s content.   Try saffron instead of pimenton, or use a combination.  Try mushroom stock.  Vary the spices to make it less Spanish and more unique.  Use traditional arborio rice instead of brown rice and cut the oven time by half.  The possibilities are endless, and up to you.

Before braising chicken thighs, I like to loosen the skin when I trim the thighs so that I can season the meat directly.  I leave the skin on to keep the meat moist during cooking, and then leave it up to my guests whether they want to remove it or not.

Prep Time: 20 Minutes
Cook Time: 30-40 minutes
Total Time: 50-60 minutes.
Serves: 6-8

Ingredients:
~4 cups stock or water, more or less as needed
2 T Extra-Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO; if you use a good nonstick pan, you may need even less; if your chicken is not fatty, you may need more)
8 chicken thighs, trimmed of all visible fat

1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes
2 zucchini, sliced on the bias into “rounds” 1/4″ to 1/2″ thick
handful of baby carrots
handful of shiitake or other mushroom caps, sliced into thirds, or not slided

2 leeks, white parts only, sliced into rounds, cleaned by soaking and swooshing for at least 2 minutes in a bowl of water; or 1 (Spanish) onion, chopped or diced
1 T tomato paste
1-2 t pimenton (Spanish smoked paprika), plus more for the chicken
Pinch saffron (optional)

12 oz chorizo or other spicy sausage, sliced into rounds of your desired thickness
3 c short-grain brown rice
coarse sea salt and fresh-ground black pepper, to taste
coarsely chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

 1. Heat oven to 450 degrees F.  Warm the stock/water and optional saffron in the microwave or a small saucepan.
2. Place tomatoes in a bowl and the zucchini, mushrooms, and carrots in another.  Sprinkle all veggies with salt and pepper, and toss with 1T EVOO.   Set aside.
3. Season chicken thighs with salt, pepper, and ~1T pimenton (eyeball it and sprinkle it from the container).
4. In a 12″ ovenproof skillet, warm 1T (or less) EVOO over medium-high heat.  Add the chicken thighs, skin-side down, and brown until just golden ~4 minutes per side.  Remove chicken to a plate and set aside.
5. Examine your pan.  You want a nice layer of fat, at least 3 Tablespoons, at the bottom of your pan to ensure a nice crust on the rice.  Pour off fat if desired, or add EVOO as necessary and reheat if needed before proceeding.  Be careful to avoid spatters.
6. Add the (well-drained) leeks or onions, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook 3-5 minutes or until softened.  Stir in tomato paste, pimenton, and chorizo.
7. Add the rice and stir for about 1 minute until well-coated and shiny.
8. Slowly pour in the warmed stock and stir until just combined.
9. Turn off the heat.  Stir in the tomatoes.  Arrange the chicken on top.  Top artfully with the colorful veggies.
10. Bake paella for 30 minutes.  After 30 minutes, check the rice.  If it is nearly dry and just tender, it’s perfect.  If it’s too dry, add more stock or water. If it’s too wet, return the pan to the oven for 5 minutes and check again.  Repeat as necessary.
12. When the rice is ready, turn the oven off, and let the paella sit for 5-15 minutes.
13. (Optional) Put the pan over high heat for a few minutes, or cover and put on low heat for up to 30 (while you finish your first course), to develop the bottom crust, otherwise known as the best part.
14. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

Weeknight Mushroom Ragu


I was home alone on a Sunday night, staring down Peter Berley, Mario Batali, and some hen-of-the-woods mushrooms that I’d picked up at the farmer’s market. Peter said to oven-roast the mushrooms before returning to the skillet — too fussy for a weeknight. Mario demanded his delicious tomato sauce as a basic ingredient, and I had none on hand.

Could I make a rich, delicious mushroom ragu using only a skillet and a knife, without having so much as removed an onion from the pantry drawer, in only 30 minutes? Nah. I could do it in 25. Boys? Game on.

Time: 25 minutes
Serves: 4, with whole-wheat pasta, thick slices of toasted whole-grain bread, or polenta.

Ingredients:
2 T EVOO
2 large cloves garlic, minced
2 medium onions, diced
1 bay leaf
3 baby carrots, sliced (optional)
12-16 ounces of wild mushrooms, or a mix of wild and button mushrooms, chopped coarsely or sliced into pieces appropriate for a chunky sauce
1 c red wine
1 t salt
1.5 t thyme
1 14.5 ounce can diced tomatoes
2 T tomato paste
1 T butter or heart-smart margarine (optional)
salt and pepper to taste

1. Heat olive oil in a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering.
2. Add onions. Saute about 5 minutes until golden-brown. Add garlic and bay leaf and carrots, if using.
3. Add mushrooms. Saute about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally until ingredients are well-mingled and mushrooms have released most of their liquid.
4. Add wine and stir to deglaze pan.
5. Add salt, thyme, tomatoes, and tomato paste. Grind in some fresh black pepper. Reduce heat.
6. Stir in additional 1T butter/margarine, if desired. Taste to adjust salt and pepper and correct seasonings.

image shared pursuant to the GFDL

Weeknight Mushroom Ragu


I was home alone on a Sunday night, staring down Peter Berley, Mario Batali, and some hen-of-the-woods mushrooms that I’d picked up at the farmer’s market. Peter said to oven-roast the mushrooms before returning to the skillet — too fussy for a weeknight. Mario demanded his delicious tomato sauce as a basic ingredient, and I had none on hand.

Could I make a rich, delicious mushroom ragu using only a skillet and a knife, without having so much as removed an onion from the pantry drawer, in only 30 minutes? Nah. I could do it in 25. Boys? Game on.

Time: 25 minutes
Serves: 4, with whole-wheat pasta, thick slices of toasted whole-grain bread, or polenta.

Ingredients:
2 T EVOO
2 large cloves garlic, minced
2 medium onions, diced
1 bay leaf
3 baby carrots, sliced (optional)
12-16 ounces of wild mushrooms, or a mix of wild and button mushrooms, chopped coarsely or sliced into pieces appropriate for a chunky sauce
1 c red wine
1 t salt
1.5 t thyme
1 14.5 ounce can diced tomatoes
2 T tomato paste
1 T butter or heart-smart margarine (optional)
salt and pepper to taste

1. Heat olive oil in a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering.
2. Add onions. Saute about 5 minutes until golden-brown. Add garlic and bay leaf and carrots, if using.
3. Add mushrooms. Saute about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally until ingredients are well-mingled and mushrooms have released most of their liquid.
4. Add wine and stir to deglaze pan.
5. Add salt, thyme, tomatoes, and tomato paste. Grind in some fresh black pepper. Reduce heat.
6. Stir in additional 1T butter/margarine, if desired. Taste to adjust salt and pepper and correct seasonings.

image shared pursuant to the GFDL

Green Salad with Portobello Mushrooms, Figs, and Rosemary-Yogurt Dressing

Sweet figs, creamy tart yogurt, earthy mushrooms, and crunchy nuts combine in a palate sensaation. You can grill the portobello mushrooms in advance. Or grill a lot of them, use them for another dish, and make this salad with the leftovers.

True yogurt, a local yogurt produced in Vermont, is delicious and Lactose-Free!

Serves: 2 as a main course or substantial first course (easily multiplied)
~6-8 oz baby spinach or other greens, rinsed and dried well
1 onion, diced
~3-4 portobello mushroom caps
5 oz plain yogurt
Zest of 1/2 lemon and juice of 1 whole lemon (zest half the lemon, then juice it)
~10 dried figs, minced
handful of walnuts or hazelnuts
1T olive oil plus more for brushing
pinch dried rosemary (or a 3x larger pinch fresh)
pinch salt
pepper

1. In a small skillet, heat onion and a pinch of salt in 1T olive oil over medium-low heat until onion caramelizes. Stir occasionally. When onions are mostly browned, throw walnuts in the pan to toast for a few minutes.
2. Meanwhile, brush mushroom caps with olive oil. Grill or Broil ~5 minutes; check for doneness. Chop into large pieces.
3. Make the dressing: Whisk together yogurt, rosemary, lemon juice and zest, and salt and pepper to taste.
4, Toss in a large bowl: greens, caramelized onions, nuts, mushrooms, and figs. Slowly add dressing to taste.

Green Salad with Portobello Mushrooms, Figs, and Rosemary-Yogurt Dressing

Sweet figs, creamy tart yogurt, earthy mushrooms, and crunchy nuts combine in a palate sensaation. You can grill the portobello mushrooms in advance. Or grill a lot of them, use them for another dish, and make this salad with the leftovers.

True yogurt, a local yogurt produced in Vermont, is delicious and Lactose-Free!

Serves: 2 as a main course or substantial first course (easily multiplied)
~6-8 oz baby spinach or other greens, rinsed and dried well
1 onion, diced
~3-4 portobello mushroom caps
5 oz plain yogurt
Zest of 1/2 lemon and juice of 1 whole lemon (zest half the lemon, then juice it)
~10 dried figs, minced
handful of walnuts or hazelnuts
1T olive oil plus more for brushing
pinch dried rosemary (or a 3x larger pinch fresh)
pinch salt
pepper

1. In a small skillet, heat onion and a pinch of salt in 1T olive oil over medium-low heat until onion caramelizes. Stir occasionally. When onions are mostly browned, throw walnuts in the pan to toast for a few minutes.
2. Meanwhile, brush mushroom caps with olive oil. Grill or Broil ~5 minutes; check for doneness. Chop into large pieces.
3. Make the dressing: Whisk together yogurt, rosemary, lemon juice and zest, and salt and pepper to taste.
4, Toss in a large bowl: greens, caramelized onions, nuts, mushrooms, and figs. Slowly add dressing to taste.

Recipe: Winter Squash and Mushroom Stir-Fry with Thyme

Mix regular button mushrooms with a more exotic variety to push those buttons into deeper mushroom flavor. Try this with any recipe that calls for exotic mushrooms to stretch your dollars.

Serves: 4
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes

10-12 oz white mushrooms (one supermarket package), stemmed, halved or quartered if large
10-12 oz crimini or other mushrooms (one supermarket package), stemmed, halved or quartered if large
1 lb winter squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/4″ chunks
1 onion, diced
1 T thyme
2 T olive oil
1/2 c stock
salt and pepper to taste

1. Heat oil over medium-high heat in a large saute pan.
2. Add the onion and a pinch of salt. Saute 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until lightly browned. Stir in the thyme.
3. Add Squash. Saute for 5 minutes.
4. Add Mushrooms and salt and pepper to taste. Saute 5 minutes more.
5. Raise heat to high and add stock. Cover and cook 5-10 minutes or until squash is tender.

Recipe: Winter Squash and Mushroom Stir-Fry with Thyme

Mix regular button mushrooms with a more exotic variety to push those buttons into deeper mushroom flavor. Try this with any recipe that calls for exotic mushrooms to stretch your dollars.

Serves: 4
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes

10-12 oz white mushrooms (one supermarket package), stemmed, halved or quartered if large
10-12 oz crimini or other mushrooms (one supermarket package), stemmed, halved or quartered if large
1 lb winter squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/4″ chunks
1 onion, diced
1 T thyme
2 T olive oil
1/2 c stock
salt and pepper to taste

1. Heat oil over medium-high heat in a large saute pan.
2. Add the onion and a pinch of salt. Saute 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until lightly browned. Stir in the thyme.
3. Add Squash. Saute for 5 minutes.
4. Add Mushrooms and salt and pepper to taste. Saute 5 minutes more.
5. Raise heat to high and add stock. Cover and cook 5-10 minutes or until squash is tender.