Moroccan Winter Fruit Compote with Rosewater

Simple.  Delicious.  Exotic.  More flexible than your yoga instructor.  And a great way to perk up those winter fruits you’re tiring of as March rains make way for Spring.

I made this compote when a friend recently challenged me to come up with a simple non-dairy dessert for brunch.  It packed well into tupperware, and I brought it over to her house still warm.  Dazzling.  And still sparkling for breakfast the next day when served cold with a dollop of thick yogurt.

If your dried apricots are less than perfectly plump — no problem.  Simply start out by soaking them for about 10 minutes in hot water, wine, in orange juice to plump them up.  This process is called maceration, a fancy word that you can throw around and impress your friends.  You can add the macerating liquid directly to the compote for extra flavor.

Rosewater is available in Middle Eastern groceries.  Use it sparingly — its scent is divine, but you can have too much of a good thing.  You can also macerate the dried fruit in the rosewater, or mix rosewater with water and spices for the macerating liquid, but be careful: rosewater can be overpowering.

Mix and match the fresh and dried fruits according to what you have on hand.  Here, I use a mix of apples, Bartlett pears, and dried apricots.  A pinch or two of salt will help imperfect, underripe, tired winter fruit shine.  Oranges might have been interesting added to the mix, and prunes could add depth and contrasting color.  Toasted almonds could change the whole dish.  Experiment.

The fruit cooks slowly, leaving you plenty of time to go and do other things, like commenting on this blog post to share your own variation on this recipe.  You can even make this recipe a day ahead.

This recipe was inspired by Mollie Katzen’s fruit compote recipes in her great ode to breakfast, Sunlight Cafe.  And it was also inspired by Morocco, of course — one of my favorite culinary muses.

Work Time: 10 minutes, after chopping the fruit
Total Time: 40 minutes
Serves: 6

Ingredients:
2 lbs fresh winter fruit, cut into 1.5 inch chunks, peeled if desired (apples, pears, oranges, bananas, maybe grapefruit, etc.)
2 T fresh lemon juice
1 C dried fruit  (apricots, prunes, figs, etc.)
1-2 T maple syrup, honey, or agave (to taste; desired amount will vary with sweetness of fruit)
Dash of cinnamon (to taste)
Dash of other sweet spices (cardamom, allspice, nutmeg, ginger, cloves)
Dash of salt (optional)
1 C walnut pieces, toasted if desired, or other nuts (almonds, pecans, etc.)
1-3 teaspoons rosewater, to taste (be careful not to overwhelm with too much of a good thing).

1) Place fruit in a saucepan.  Cover and cook slowly over medium heat, stirring about every 5 minutes.  (If using Bosc pears, you may need to add a bit of extra water in step 1 to keep them moist).
2) After about 30 minutes, stir in lemon juice, dried fruit, and salt (if using).  Cook for another 10 minutes.  Meanwhile, toast the nuts, if desired.
3) Stir in sweetener, cinnamon and other spices.  Turn off the heat.
4) Sprinkle sparingly with rosewater, to taste, and taste to adjust the seasoning, salt, and sweetener.
5) Inhale the heavenly smell.
6) Serve warm, room temperature, or cold, plain, topped with yogurt, creme fraiche, whipped cream, soft cheese, or even ice cream.

Food for Thought: Is it Possible to be a Locavore in a New England Winter?

Is it possible to be a locavore in a New England winter?  The Smart Green Gourmet is determined to find out.  After shopping at farmer’s markets throughout the Spring, Summer, and Fall, I searched for a way to continue buying local, seasonal, organic/sustainable produce in the winter months.  Last winter, the only thing I could find at Whole Foods, Shaw’s, and Wilson Farm in the winter were turnips.  My dedication to local foods crumbled when confronted week after week with their purply-white peels.

So I had initially shied away from joining a winter farmshare for fear that I would eat nothing but  turnips all winter long.  But this winter I stumbled upon Enterprise Farms, which takes an innovative approach to wintertime Community Supported Agriculture.  Enterprise has created a regional “food shed” to supplement local New England organic produce with partner organic/sustainable farms from the East Coast.  This way my food still travels a shorter distance and consumes fewer resources than if I had bought it at the grocery store, and I can still support small farmers, but I can eat citrus and parsley as well as turnips.   Jordan and Kelley at Enterprise were also very helpful and were willing to tolerate my crazy travel schedule and let us try out a small share from February 1 through May 1.  They had many pick-up locations, including one right near me, and they even deliver by bike in a pinch.  So we signed on for a small share, which easily fits in a canvas shopping bag.  It was great to meet all of my neighbors as everyone lined up to receive their boxes of delicious produce.  Many brought their kids along to learn about local food.  Perhaps they were taking a cue from Michele Obama, who introduces schoolchildren to her White House garden as part of her crusade against childhood obesity, using fresh veggies to teach kids about healthy food and the Earth from which it grows. 

This week, I received:

 
The produce did not disappoint.  Tonight, the fresh arugula brought a breath of Spring to my Winter table in a salad with crisp apples, walnuts, roasted fennel, fennel fronds, and a sweet sherry vinaigrette.  And after today’s news, I’m especially glad to know where my salad is coming from.  Maybe tomorrow I’ll tackle the turnips.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Salmon, Walnuts, and Mustard Vinaigrette . . . and Other Ways.


I recently went to the farmer’s market, saw a woman try a green bean, and start moaning. I chose to keep my public expressions of joy over these magic beans a little more restrained, but I must admit — they really were that good. Since then I’ve been bringing home green beans and heirloom tomatoes every week to make a salad. Each week has been different. Sometimes the salad is a side dish with a simple balsamic vinaigrette. Other times it’s a main course, with walnuts, canned salmon, and Omega-3s to spare. Whatever it is, it takes no more than 15 minutes, it’s stunningly delicious, and it’s so fresh that it makes me feel almost as if I’ve picked the fruits myself. Once you’ve found your favorite farmers market stand, I offer you the following expanding list of ideas. You may steam the green beans first, or just leave them raw. With some whole grain bread or this wonderful socca from Bitten, you’ll soon be in whole food heaven.

Time: ~10-15 minutes
Serves: 2-6, depending on whether you are planning a salad or main course, which variety you make, and what you accompany it with.

Base Ingredients:
1 lb green beans, tips removed
1 pint cherry tomatoes

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Walnuts, Canned Salmon, and Mustard Vinaigrette (pictured above):
Flake 1 can (wild) salmon over the green beans. Whisk in a small bowl 2 t dijon mustard, 2 t honey, 2-3 T sherry vinegar, 2-3 T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss dressing with salad and sprinkle with (toasted) walnuts.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Whole Grain Croutons and Lemon Vinaigrette:
Toast chunks of whole grain bread tossed with garlic (or – gasp – garlic powder), salt, and pepper or red pepper flakes to taste. Meanwhile, whisk in a small bowl zest of 1/2 lemon, juice of 1 lemon, 3T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Add a drop of honey if dressing is too acidic. Toss with salad; add croutons.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Toasted Hazelnuts, Goat Cheese, and Balsamic Vinaigrette:
Lightly toast hazelnuts in a small skillet or toaster oven. Meanwhile, in a small bowl whisk 2-3 T balsamic vinegar, 2-3 T EVOO, 1-2 T honey, 1 clove minced garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss dressing with salad; sprinkle with hazelnuts and crumbled goat cheese.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Toasted Macadamia Nuts and Lemon Vinaigrette:
Toast macadamia nuts in a small skillet or toaster oven. Meanwhile, whisk in a small bowl zest of 1/2 lemon, juice of 1 lemon, 3T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Add a drop of honey if dressing is too acidic. Toss dressing with salad; sprinkle with macadamia nuts.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Corn and Spicy Lime Vinaigrette:
Whisk in a small bowl or blend in a blender or mini-food processor juice of one lime, red pepper flakes, cayenne pepper, or fresh hot pepper to taste, 3T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Toss with green beans, cherry tomatoes, and 1 can corn kernels or fresh corn kernels.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar:
Simple. Delicious. Done.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Salmon, Walnuts, and Mustard Vinaigrette . . . and Other Ways.


I recently went to the farmer’s market, saw a woman try a green bean, and start moaning. I chose to keep my public expressions of joy over these magic beans a little more restrained, but I must admit — they really were that good. Since then I’ve been bringing home green beans and heirloom tomatoes every week to make a salad. Each week has been different. Sometimes the salad is a side dish with a simple balsamic vinaigrette. Other times it’s a main course, with walnuts, canned salmon, and Omega-3s to spare. Whatever it is, it takes no more than 15 minutes, it’s stunningly delicious, and it’s so fresh that it makes me feel almost as if I’ve picked the fruits myself. Once you’ve found your favorite farmers market stand, I offer you the following expanding list of ideas. You may steam the green beans first, or just leave them raw. With some whole grain bread or this wonderful socca from Bitten, you’ll soon be in whole food heaven.

Time: ~10-15 minutes
Serves: 2-6, depending on whether you are planning a salad or main course, which variety you make, and what you accompany it with.

Base Ingredients:
1 lb green beans, tips removed
1 pint cherry tomatoes

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Walnuts, Canned Salmon, and Mustard Vinaigrette (pictured above):
Flake 1 can (wild) salmon over the green beans. Whisk in a small bowl 2 t dijon mustard, 2 t honey, 2-3 T sherry vinegar, 2-3 T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss dressing with salad and sprinkle with (toasted) walnuts.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Whole Grain Croutons and Lemon Vinaigrette:
Toast chunks of whole grain bread tossed with garlic (or – gasp – garlic powder), salt, and pepper or red pepper flakes to taste. Meanwhile, whisk in a small bowl zest of 1/2 lemon, juice of 1 lemon, 3T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Add a drop of honey if dressing is too acidic. Toss with salad; add croutons.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Toasted Hazelnuts, Goat Cheese, and Balsamic Vinaigrette:
Lightly toast hazelnuts in a small skillet or toaster oven. Meanwhile, in a small bowl whisk 2-3 T balsamic vinegar, 2-3 T EVOO, 1-2 T honey, 1 clove minced garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss dressing with salad; sprinkle with hazelnuts and crumbled goat cheese.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Toasted Macadamia Nuts and Lemon Vinaigrette:
Toast macadamia nuts in a small skillet or toaster oven. Meanwhile, whisk in a small bowl zest of 1/2 lemon, juice of 1 lemon, 3T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Add a drop of honey if dressing is too acidic. Toss dressing with salad; sprinkle with macadamia nuts.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Corn and Spicy Lime Vinaigrette:
Whisk in a small bowl or blend in a blender or mini-food processor juice of one lime, red pepper flakes, cayenne pepper, or fresh hot pepper to taste, 3T EVOO, 1 clove minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Toss with green beans, cherry tomatoes, and 1 can corn kernels or fresh corn kernels.

Green Bean and Cherry Tomato Salad with Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar:
Simple. Delicious. Done.